![]() There exists a small subgenre of gourmand-with-an-eating-disorder accounts, including Hannah Howard’s books “ Feast” (2018) and “ Plenty” (2021). ![]() What, then, to make of Shaina Loew-Banayan’s new book, “Elegy for an Appetite,” a memoir of a young chef with an eating disorder? Shaina Loew-Banayan, now the chef and owner of Café Mutton, in Hudson, New York, isn’t the first writer to scramble the notion that food obsession can be either professionally constructive or personally destructive. Others get eating disorders.” From that neat and logical dichotomy one might envision two opposite genres of food memoir: the warts-and-all chronicle of life as a restaurant chef and the self-searching literature of life with an eating disorder. ![]() ![]() In her 1998 book, “ Wasted: A Memoir of Anorexia and Bulimia,” Marya Hornbacher writes that “some people who are obsessed with food become gourmet chefs. ![]()
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